Many people of India especially devotees of Lord Shiva have a dream of pilgrimage to holy Amarnath cave in Kashmir. It is an adventurous as well as scared journey. It is our belief from very early period that if yatra path will be as much as difficult the fruits of pilgrimage will be rewarding accordingly. I also had a dream of this holy yatra from my childhood. My daddy had done it 31 yrs before in 1979. He used to describe yatra details and his experience among his friends many times. The curious part of his narration was the difficulties arises in the route and how it were overcome though resources, facilities and assistance from Govt. & non govt. organizations were very limited in those days. His description sparked a lit in my childhood mind and I often used to dream for yatra since then. But it is our firm belief that until and unless the divine calls, one will not be able to attend him un-hindered irrespective of all favorable circumstances. Even the most beautiful thought will not make progress unless we have constant will for them through nobler feelings, more exact sensations & better actions.
My dream came into reality in july, 2010. My several times prayer at “Trayamkeshwar” (Nashik), “Sri SAI Nath“ (Shirdi), “Shanidev” (Shignapur), trekking to “Bhimashankar” and fourteen times “Kanwaryatra” from Sultangunj to “Baba Baidyanath”Deoghar (Jharkhand) were considered by GOD ‘Ashutosh’, Favorable situation came to me to accomplish Amarnath Yatra.
It was widely advertised through electronic as well as print media that “Ice Shiv Lingam” at Amarnath had formed in 18 feet high shape this year. Therefore yatra period would be for almost two months, i.e., from 1st july to 25th August 2010. So large number of people from every corner of the world got inspired to take benefit of this opportunities. Among more than hundred crores of people in India, only a few lacs think about this arduous pilgrimage. In that lacs, only a few thousand become lucky or say graced by ‘Baba Bholenath’ to perform the yatra. Most of the people hesitate to launch this arduous pilgrimage to imagine difficulties and unsafe conditions in the route. It is good proverb that “seek opportunity not security. A boat in a harbor is safe, but its bottom will rot out in time.” Hanumanjee took all opportunity to do the work of his divine master and became successful in each and every challenge. That’s why he became the most popular and respected God of India. To visit Amarnath is the best form to pay homage to our Divine Lord Shiva.
There are two trekking routes for holy cave. One starts from Pahalgam which is 48 kms to cave but now a days trekking starts 12 kms ahead from chandanwari (36km) which takes 3 days to reach the cave. Second route is from Baltal. This route is steep climb of 16 kms to the cave, which is very tiring and exhaustive. So people prefer the traditional Pahalgam route. We planned our upward journey from Pahalgam and return via Baltal route.
History
- Exact period in not known when AmarnathYatra took start. According to Puran, Bhrigu Rishi visited Amarnath Cave. In the Maurya dynesty, Kashmir came under Ashoka’s rule and yatra was done by sages/ sadhus/ sanyasi and shiv-bhakts. Kalhan has written in his ‘Rajtarangini’ (i.e. History of Kashmir) in 11th century that AmarnathYatra was in use for one thousand years before Christ. But yatra remained closed time to time for several hundred and thousand years due to disturbance caused by outside invaders in Kashmir in medieval age. Discontinuation of yatra also occurred due to natural calamity many times. For instance, one recent occurrence happened in 1928 when river of panchtarani suddenly overflooded at night when pilgrims were sleeping in tents near river bed. Nearly two thousand people swept away. Since then no body looked towards for twenty years.
- There are many myths and legends about Kashmir and Amarnath Yatra. In primitive age Kashmir was a big lake which was ruled by King Nagraj. With due permission of his Guru Kashyap Rishi, he invited some human being. With human being some demons also came and begane to live. Later on demons began to vex men as well as King Nagraj. Now Nagraj went to his Guru and told his problem. Rishi prayed God Shankar WHO gave him a “silver stick” and directed them to take it to his abode at that holy cave where HE will appear and bless HIS devotees. “Silver Stick” i.e., ‘Chhadi’ is symbol of safety and authority. Since then yatra is done by a monk (Mahant/ Hindu prist) with this “Chhadi Mubarak”. A large number of hermits/ anchorites and devotees accompany this monk. The group reaches the holy cave on full moon day of Sawan (Which falls in August) every year and perform puja archana and religious rituals.
- Most common and popular legend about this holy cave is related to Shiv-Parvati. The divine consort of Shivaji is Parbati who requested Shivaji to tell her about creation of universe and secret of death and rebirth. Then Shivaji started searching a very lonely place where “Amarkatha” would be narrated before Parbati. He saw the cave with his divine eyes and moved towards it with Maa Parbati. When he reached a very beautiful and lonely place on the bank of river Lidder (Also called NilGanga) where he asked Nandi (OX) to remain there and do not allow any creature to go ahead. So that place was called ‘Bailgam’ and later on it converted into Pahalgam. After a few miles ahead he washed all his Bibhuti and Chandan of his body so that place is called ‘Chandanwari’. A few miles away Shivji separated snake (reptile) from his neck and kept him to remain on the bank of a glacial lake called Sheshnag lake. Again a few miles ahead he told his son ‘Ganesha’ to seat on a mountain top (14,700 feet m.s.l.). This place is called Mahagunush Top. When he reached at a flat ground he opend his dreadlocks(Jata) and shook vigorously. A few drops of water fell down on earth and became five streams. That’s why this place is called “Panchtarani”. When he reached holy cave made a thunder voice due to which all living creature fled away. But a pair of pigeon’s egg in a hole burst and squabs (nascent born pigeons) came out. Now Shivji kept his eyes closed and started to deliver “Amarkatha”. In the mid of katha Ma Parbati went into sound sleep but squabs heard Amarkatha in full and became immortal. This pair still remains in the hole of cave and give darshan to pilgrims.
- An another myth is also common in Kashmir that one muslim shepherd “Buta Mallik” of Pahalgam saw this cave and ice-lingam while he was grazing his sheep in that region. He became much excited and informed some Hindu sages about natural formation of an Ice-Shiv-Lingam. He showed the forgotten route also. Since then this pilgrimage is regularly done by devotees in every Srawan month of Hindu Calendar.
- There is some twist in this story. According to traditional story which is very common in Kashmir is like this. One Muslim shepherd namely Butta Mullick was given a sack of coal by a Hindu Anchorite. Opening the sack he found it full of gold. Overjoyed, he rushed to look for that very sadhu to express gratitude to him. He followed the sage to far distance place where sadhu disappeared and he reached to the cave and found a very beautiful “Ice-Lingam”. The route was forgotten by hindu devotees due to many bad occurrences for several hundred years. Buta came and described the whole incident to Hindu sages. He also showed the route. Since then Yatra again started. In 1858 A.D. Dogra King Gulab Singh pleased and decreed that representative of Mullick family would always be present at the holy cave shrine along with a mahant and pandit of Ganeshpora during the yatra every year. One third of the offerings received at Holy cave would go to Mullick’d family. Buta’s family was also granted a large estate near Pahalgam and exempted from paying land revenue to the state. Presently Subhang Mallik of Buta Mallik’s family acts as main priest of the Amarnaath Shrine. He does evening AARTI of Shankar Jee everyday during yatra period.
- An another story has come to notice with some historical facts that a monk (Hindu Priest) of Hoshangabad (Now in M.P.) used to go Amarnath yatra with “Chhadi Mubarak” in 16th century. But it was very tiring and time taking. It took several months of one trip. Fifth Sikh Guru Arjundev (1581 to 1606) gave a piece of land at Amritsar and provided facilities to the mahant to start his yatra from there. From That period yatra was continued from Amritsar. In 19th century, Dogra King Gulag singh was made king of Kashmir by Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Gulabsingh donated land for hermitage (DashnamiAkhada) at Srinagar to start yatra of “Chhadi Mubarak”. Since then it is continued till the date. Now a days “Chhadi Mubarak” yatra starts from Dashnami Akhara of Srinagar under leadership of Mahant Krishnanand Saraswati. Several hundred sages, hermits, anchorites & devotees accompany the procession. This yatra is 143km long and procession takes halt at Pampur, Bijbehara, Anantnag and proceeds through Matan, Aishmukam and Pahelgam. The procession takes rest at Pahelgam for two days and then proceeds for Holicave. Thousands of Pilgrims/Yatries accompany the holy procession from Pahelgam and passes through Chandanbari, Sheshnag, Panchtarmi and reaches the Holycave on “Raksha-Bandhan”(full moon night of Sawan month of Vikrami calendar which fall in July-August). After Puja-Archana at Holycave the “Chadi Mubarak” returns.
The history and the geography of the Himalaya in general and Kashmir in particular were recited by daddy. He told us that yatra would be more interesting if we had the following information of visiting place i.e., geographical location, history (when this place came to the knowledge), topography, people and caste-system, eating habits, cloths and garment, houses, belief and religion, cultural function and festivals, Govt.’s development work, their views of govt.’s plan, social lockout, village pradhan’s power and prestige, home industries, their cattle, agriculture and business. Without knowing above information of visiting place is like water pouring on bald-head. The more we know the more we can see that we know a little.
