12th-july-2010: We got up early in the morning. Toilet and bathrooms were not in sufficient numbers and suitable conditions. Supply water was very cold. Hot water was available @ Rs. 20/- per bucket. All were in haste to be ready quickly to start yatra as early as possible. People were standing in queues in front of each toilet and bathroom. To be free from nature’s call & bath was a very difficult task. Though fooding arrangements were in abundance but toilet facility were not sufficient rather insufficient and inadequate.
Anyhow we became ready for upward journey by 7.00 am and came to exit gate, where more than 5 to 6 thousand people were standing & waiting for opening the exit gate. After standing for more than one hour we came to know that gate was closed due to non-availability of vehicles for Chandanbari. All pilgrims were frustrated at buffet. It came to our knowledge that many pilgrims staying in hotels outside the camp had taken taxis and had gone to Chandanbari at the break of dawn and we were held up by security men up to 9,30 a.m. Standing in heavy rush for more than 2.30 hrs. was a very bitter experience than travelling in Mumbai-local train. Pilgrims staying in hotels were given privilege to start their journey by 5.00 am while the pilgrims in the camp were detained like prisoners for such a long time. Anyhow gate was opened by 9.30 am and we came out on the main road which was crowded with pilgrims. Luckily one empty mini bus was found and we all boarded for Chandanbari @Rs. 65/- per head for 16 km and one hour journey.
Chandanbari is a small picturesque valley at 2,900M/6,500 feet above MSL. It is situated at the confluence of Sheshnag stream and the stream of Astanmarg. Here we had to go through security check up. We got lunch at a lungar and started our onwards trekking for Sheshnag.
Pissu Top – The route from Chandanbari is very steep climb upto Pissu Top. The scattered rocks & boulders remind the legend that to reach first for darshan of Bholenath, Devs & Danavs begane to fight each other. There broke a perilous battle in which Devs became winner by killing all demons due to grace of Shivji. Such large number of heaps of their dead bodies had resulted in this high mountain. It took more than one and half hour to reach the Pissu Top. Still we had to cover 9 km to Sheshnag. Distance has no meaning in mountains; it is altitude which has to be negotiated has worth considering. Now we were above tree line. Though thousands pilgrims were going up, a few were returning also after holy darshan. Many pilgrims were trekking, some were going on ponies and some old and handicapped on dandies.
Jozipal – At Pissu Top our team members divided into 3 batches, i.e., fast movers, medium and slow walkers. In our first batch were Ranjan, Ajit and Shushil who were instructed to reach Sheshnag earlier and book tent. They reached by 5.00 pm. Where Dr. Ashok lal& Ganesh Chandra by 7 pm.
Myself, Kunal, Mangesh, Shiva and Daddy were moving in slow speed. When we reached Jozipal, an small flat ground, it was getting dark, but we had to cover more than 4 kms. After one hour trek, we were instructed by security men to hurry up because our camp was still 4 km. Kunal & Mangesh exhausted too much because it was their first high altitude trek. Shiva also not feeling well due to headache and too much exhaustion. When things become confused outside you fix on your mind at once the rule of not judging by appearance – refer all to the Divine with the confidence that all will clear. Daddy convinced us that it was not illness but altitude effect and would be relaxed after getting rest in tent. An illness is only wrong atitude taken by some parts of body. The Doctor’s role is, by various means, to induce the body to recover its trust in the Supreme Grace. It was getting dark so we had no other option but to continue our trek. Good judgment is result of experience, but good experience is result of bad judgment. It was amazement that a family returning from holy cave was carrying a kid of 2 yrs old. It is strongly advised in mountaineering not to bring kids below 12 years because they do not sustain high altitude effect, thermal shock and thin oxygen density.
We the slowest members reached Sheshnag camp by 9.30 pm and made announcement to call our team members. Ajit appeared and took us to our tent. They had booked a ten men tent for Rs. 1800/-. We were so much tired & exhausted that we did not care for dinner and entered into sleeping bags. Shushil & myself messaged Daddy’s body. Dr. Ashok gave some medicine to Shiva. Mercury gone down below -50C.
13th July 2010 – We all woke up by 5.00 am. When we asked location of toilets to security personnel they indicated their finger towards river. Nature’s call had been left on nature responsibility. After getting fresh we saw the beauty of Sheshnag Lake and watched Sunrise over the spectacular snow capped mountains. It is an amazing lake situated at an altitude of about 3,650 m. Water was sky blue but cold and clean. It remains snow covered till the june. Sheshnag is the windiest place in the route. Sheshnag a mountain derived its name from seven peaks, resembling the heads of the mythical snake. There are myths of love and revenge associated with Sheshnag. The lake is the source of river lidder which is tributary of Jhelum. This lake is aquamarine and very still and looked like pristine. Mountain peaks were covered with beautiful cubs and reflects in the lake. It is said that Sheshnag has lifted earth on his shoulder.
When I was coming from river side Mrs. & Mr. Pyarelal Sharma met. They became very happy to meet me but repenting because they had missed our group. They were very much obliged with our team due to the best co-operation got from our members. They had to face many inconvenience after getting disconnected from our team. We judge ourselves by what we feel capable of doing, while others judge us by what we have already done for them. Our altitude determines our attitude.
Ganesh Top – We all became ready by 7.00 am and started our onward journey. A few yards ahead we found a Haryana based lungar where we took breakfast according to our choice. Shiva’s condition was not well but not so much bad. So we gave him light refreshment and medicine. After half an hour rest he felt slightly well and started journey.
The trek was steadily gaining height winding upto Mahagunush top (4,500 m/ 14, 700 ft) the highest point in the route. It was quite warm so we removed some layer of clothing. It is advisable in mountaineering that getting warm up a few layers of garments should be removed and getting cold should be put on more. The presence of security personnel was a moral boost up to yatries. We found 5-10 snow bridges in route. Though BRO’s labors were making steps but it had gone slippery due to Sun-shine. The route to Mahagunush is full of rivulets, waterfalls & spring. Two Shiv-Bhakts were going “Bhu-Pari” prostrating (Laying flat) at each stroke. Their devotion was beyond our imagination. We paid them respect and gave them sufficient dry fruits to take as breakfast. They became very happy though they seem from well-to-do family. We reached Mahagunush by 10.00 am.
Poshpatri – From Mahagunush, the route was almost downwards. We reached Poshpatri where a Lungar of very big size was serving good quality food. The lungar was organized by Delhi based society namely “Shree Shiv Sewak”. Again we were requested by volunteers of lungar to take some food and we could not deny.
Panchtarani – The route from Poshpatri to Panchtarani was slightly downwards. When we reached near Panchtarani, there was a flat river bed like a vast meadow. The camping ground was at the foot of the mount Bhairav where five streams converge. These five streams originated from lord Shiva’s dreadlocks (Jata).
We reached Panchtarani camp ground by 5.00 pm. Our all team members met except Ranjan. Ajit & Shushil told us that they were searching Ranjan for last two hours. They were regularly announcing for Ranjan at fifteen minutes intervals. Then myself and Daddy became worried. We searched him in medical camp also. It began drizzling with chilled water. We all got wet. After vigorous search & announcement for two hours, we became hopeless. My teammates advised me to book the tent and take rest otherwise we all would got wet and sick. We did so and prayed “Oh Bhole help us”. We discussed all possible circumstances and possibilities and reached on a conclusion that Ranjan, a fast trekker, had reached earlier and moved to holy cave. Till late night we were curious to hear announcement of Ranjan but in vein.
14th July 2010 – The Holy cave - 14th July we got up early in morning. Though weather was very much cold as comparison to Mumbai and Delhi. But we had no time to enjoy the coolness and stillness of Panchtarani. In very short period all members got freshed. Ganesh and Dr. Ashok purchased hot water @ Rs. 20/- per bucket and took bath in a minute.
There was a pass in the route to Holy cave. Tiredness and exhaustion made us disheartened to cross the pass, but our lovely lord in the Holy Cave was calling us. After pass there came a junction (known as Sangam), where Baltal & Panchtarani route met. From here we climbed an steep climb for 45 minutes, the curve got over and we saw our 1st glimpse of the Holy Cave. The sight of the Holy Cave rejuvenated our spirit and we began shouting “Bum Bum Bhole; Namah Shivay” and singing “Rudrashtakam”.
We came to “Ice Bridge” area. Wet snow which had become so hard that water was flowing at very high speed beneath it and thousands of people and ponies crossing it daily without any risk. The River under it is called “Amarganga” or “Amaravati”.
When we reached within 2 km of the abode of Bhole Nath the beautiful natural scene came to our view. Time was 8 a.m. and day was Wednesday. Environment was dust free and Sunshine was brighter .Snow all around was shining and sparkling in Sunlight. When holy cave remained 1.5KM away we found some hue and cry of ponywalas and yatries. It was place of pony stand. No any pony was allowed beyond it.
Little ahead there were thousands of shops on both side of foot trek to the cave. One shop keeper asked us to put our luggage in his tent and took bath. He provided hot water @ Rs. 50 per bucket but after little bargaining he agreed on Rs. 30/- per bucket. Zaheer (Shopkeeper) arranged our bags in his tent. The tent was also working as a makeshift cloak room. Later on we came to know that there was a condition applied tag for the safe keeping our bags in this tent. Though he was not charging any rent for luggage, Prasadam had to be purchased from his shop. Our tent owner was a group of 4-5 men all of the same family from Anantnag. Though they were Muslim but respect Hindu sentiments. They had got license from state govt. and set up their shop every year during the yatra period for last 15 years.
Taking bath in open sky & cool wind we become ready for cave. We bought prasadam from Zaheer’s shop. Daddy had already brought Belpatra, Bhang & Dhatura from Bokaro, as sent by my mother. Pouring of water & milk is not allowed on “Baba Barfani”. Lighting of agarbatti, dhoop & kapoor is also not allowed in the cave to protect “Ice-Lingam” from melting.
When we walked 1 km ahead we had to form a queue but it was a security check post. Suddenly Shiva, Ajit & Shushil began shouting “Mil-Gaya……. Mil Gaya”. What mil gaya was “Ranjan”. I noticed one smiling face looking us by waving his both hands. A few hours before I was so much angry on him and I had decided to shout on him whenever he meet but now suddenly my all anger got melted with joy that my missing member met. I hugged & squeezed him like my seven months old son “Rudransh”. It is best theories that never take action when you are angry. In a team work member has to be a good shock absorber. Ranjan had done darshan on previous day because he had reached Panchtarani by 2.00 pm and moved to the cave. So we all got tension free because Ranjan was found out. We handed over our all mobiles & cameras to him because these are not allowed in the cave.
This year helicopter service was in full swing. Their frequency of arriving Panchtarani from Baltal side was 5 minutes and similar case was also from Pahalgam side. The rest 6 km from Panchtarani to holy cave was covered by Pony or Dandy. Those arriving by helicopters were being given VIP treatment. They were directly escorted into the cave for holy darshan which hardly took 10 minutes. But their convenience was on the cost of general pilgrims who were standing in a long queue. Security personnel & Govt’s representatives were abashedly giving priority to them. In our society religion & belief of people has been commercialized and commerce has been religionised. The resistance with which we meet in the accomplishment of our work is proportionate to its importance.
The Holy Cave is at upper place than surrounding area. We had to climb a long series of stairs. Our movement was very slow because of long queue. The cave is situated at 3,888 m/ 12,760 ft. Photography is strictly prohibited in the cave. A 12 ft. high Shiv-Lingam was in so handsome shape that all pilgrims enchanted to have a look and began shouting “Jai Bholenath”. There was two other small flat ice structures near the Shiva-Lingam; one symbolizing goddess Parbati & other for lord Ganesha. Here Graceful Supreme wears skulls of other indicative of HIS ever permanent existence blissful reside to bless all the devotees who come to darshan & worship. Indian people believe that Shiva Ji explained the secret of life and eternity to his divine consort “Parbati jee”. Salutation to this peerless lord!
“O Lord, Thou art my refuge and my blessing, my strength, my health, my hope and my courage. Thou are supreme peace, unalloyed joy, perfect security. My whole being prostrates before thee in gratitude beyond measure and a ceaseless worship, and that worship goes up from my heart and my mind towards thee like the pure smoke of incense of the perfumes of India”.
Two white pigeons were seen in the cave. It is believed that they are immortal. Later on 3-4 more pigeons of grey and black colors were also seen. We offered puja-items brought from home and market on the newly made stone Shiv-Lingam and sat down in the corner of the cave for Dhyan & Jap. With words one can at times understand but only in silence one goes near Divine. There is no better ways to show one’s gratefulness to the Divine than to be quietly happy.
There is a small kund in the cave in which holy water (coming from mountains) accumulates and people take it to their homes. Kunal & Mangesh also collected some water in small plastic bottle which became empty when we reached Jammu. We spent nearly 45 minutes in the cave and take permission from Bholenath for our return journey. We prayed HIM to call us again & again.
We came down to security check post where Ranjan was waiting us with frightened eyes. He was scared stiff to me. I had forgotten his entire episode but had some little annoyance. All is well that end well. The entire communication gap happened due to not working of pre-paid mobile phones in J&K state. BSNL was providing their sim card to Amarnath Yatries for 15 days only but we could not take it due to our hasty movement from Jammu onwards.
It was 12.00 a.m. Having taken lunch in a lungar, we bought some prasadam & symbols of Baba Amarnath to distribute among our friends & neighbors. We collected our bags/ Sacks from Zaheer’s shop and became ready for our return journey to Baltal.
We were very happy and satisfied that we had done darshan without any disturbance caused by bad weather, mountain sickness and miscreants. We live each day in anxiety. We worry beforehand about something that will probably never happen. Satisfaction does not depend on outer circumstances but on an inner condition. Always circumstances come to reveal the hidden weaknesses that have to be overcome. The path is long, but surrender to divine makes it short, the way is difficult but perfect trust makes it easy.
We were feeling some unhappiness because we were going away from our Baba Barfani. But my Daddy’s view was different. He said us: “you are not going away from HIM rather you were away until you have done this arduous journey and darshan. Now you all have taken so much pain and come here with great shradha & Bhakti, He will remain always with you. Whenever you will be in ease, Bholenath will appear in your memory. The whole yatra will move like film reel in your mind. Forget that you are alone in life. HE is always with you helping, giving and protecting from danger. He is the companion who never fails, the friend whose love comforts and strengthens. Have faith in HIM and HE will do everything for you. That has happened with me. When I came to Baba Amarnath in 1979, HE inspired me to do mountaineering in addition to my normal duty in Bokaro Steel Plant. I done Basic and Advance courses and constituted a mountaineering team in my City. My team launched six successful expeditions to the Himalayan peak above 20,000 ft. and 16 High altitudes trekking above 16,000 ft. We also organized rock climbing courses for youngsters in winter for 25 yrs. Due to Baba’s grace neither any accident happened to my team nor was any member affected with even a minor injury. Due to Baba Bholenath, the above feats go to my credit though people of my city Bokaro & State Bihar – Jharkhand are not interested in this sport rather they dislike and hate these activities. Some people apply their whole energy to acquire more money, post and fame. If you do bhakti of divine, you will be satisfied with your achievements. If you compare yourself with a person having more money, post & fame you will find yourself winner. The divine has given you a great thing, i.e., mental peace.”
We packed up our sacks and began our return journey via Baltal. Baltal route is very steep decline from here, so we decided to send my Daddy and Kunal by pony. Ponywala asked different rates. Their charges vary from man to man and were based on person to be carried. After bargaining one ponywala agreed for Kunal @ Rs. 700/-, other for Daddy @ Rs. 800/-. Both left us at 2.00 p.m. While rest of 8 started trekking.
After ½ hr trek on Baltal route, the stalls, shops and activities left behind and now only high mountains were all around. The path was more arduous than Pahalgam route. At Sangam we took light refreshment in a lungar run by Shiv-Bhakts of Punjab. Spending a few minutes for photography, we moved ahead.
From Barari we were going down & down, breathing problem was no more and we were walking without exhaustion. I moved slightly fast and my friends remained nearly half km behind me. I sat on a rock to relax and wait for them. In the mean time I went in the state of drowsiness. One security men came to me & asked whether I need any medical help. I thanked him for his care shown to me. I saw some interest in him and asked many questions about their duty life in Kashmir and especially in Amarnath Yatra. He was very much cheerful man of about 30 yrs. He said, “We enjoy duty rather duty is not burden to the Jawans.”
I asked him about his gun, he said “This is AK-47, which sprays bullets as we sprays perfumes, 30 bullets in a few seconds. Ye GUN hamari Maai, Baap, Aurat aur sabkuchh hai. Ham ise kabhi akela nahin chhodte, dusron ko haath me nahi dete. Ye hamari Life-line hai. Main sote waqt pahle ise sulata hun phir main sota hun.”
Due to my curiosity I asked, “Do you not sleep in your night duty.” He replied, “Santari seema per jaagta hai taakee desh ki janta raat me achhi nind so sake.” I became very much pleased with his reply. In the mean time my team members Ajit, Mangesh, Dr. Ashok, Ganesh, Shiva, Shushil & Ranjan arrived. I gave him acquaintances of my friends of Mumbai. When I asked his native place he was from Bihar and my own native district Chhapra. We overjoyed and said goodbye with warm hearted.
By 8.00 p.m. it became dark due to cloudy weather. I was in fever and my both toes got damaged. Ajit massaged my head with Kapoor & oil which helped me a lot. Some ponywala told us that Baltal was only 15 min more. After one hour gradual walking some ponywalas coming from opposite side said the same “15 more min”. We did not understand their “15 min”. Anyway we reached Baltal a flat valley by 10.00 p.m. and relaxed that we had reached at destination. But it was our delusion. We were told by security men that the place was CRPF Base camp, the pilgrim’s camp was still 3 km ahead. Dr. Ashok & Ganesh were still lagging behind. We prayed Baba Bholenath for their safe return and we moved for pilgrim camp. There were a number of lungars in Yatries camp area. We were being requested by volunteers to take dinner. I found my favorite dish (Makki ki roti & Sarso ki Saag) but due to fatigue we could take light dinner.
When we reached camp gate no – 2, I heard announcement on mike by naming Rajesh & Mangesh of Mumbai. That was my Daddy’s voice. The time was around 12.30 am, Daddy was anxiously waiting and announcing us since 8.00 pm. He took us into our booked tent where we immediately went into sound sleep.
